Road Trip Part 1: Suffrage Sites

Hi Y'all! As you have seen, I have not posted much regarding my sabbatical - unfortunately I have spent most of it reading silly books and procrastinating important decisions. But, a week ago I set out on my epic road trip - covering thousands of miles and practically a whole continent! 

On my way to the main attractions (Glacier, Yellowstone, and Grand Teton National Parks), I stopped at a few suffrage historical sites along the way. As you all know, I'm a huge nerd for suffrage history, and I've organized/led suffrage walking tours of Washington, DC covering the involvement of Mormon women in the suffrage movement. So, without further ado, here are some pictures and details of the suffrage sites I visited. I'm currently debating whether I want to spend the money to stay in the very ritzy Hermitage Hotel in Nashville, where the suffragists plotted their campaign to get Tennessee to ratify the 19th amendment (Tennessee was the final state they needed to ratify so that women could vote in the 1920 election). 

Harriet Taylor Upton's Home in Warren, Ohio

It's a safe bet that most of you haven't heard of Harriet Taylor Upton, but she was an instrumental figure in the women's suffrage movement. She was treasurer of the national suffrage association for over 15 years, and for a period close to a decade, the national association's headquarters was in her hometown of Warren, Ohio so she could run the office. Harriet was also big in Republican party politics, as her father was a congressman. In her (huge) dining room in (tiny) Warren, OH, Harriet entertained 4 Republican presidents. During the 1920 campaign, Harriet was the one who held Warren G. Harding's feet to the fire and made sure he did everything he could for suffrage (at the time, she was the highest ranking woman in the Republican party). 

Harriet's House!

The house was nice and well maintained by a local Harriet Taylor Upton society (they rent it out for events). While there, I bought a copy of Harriet's "Random Recollections" - some of her memories. I wish she would have written more about her suffrage activities - she barely mentions her treasurer duties, and as an accountant, I am professionally interested. But here are a few of my favorite moments:

Harriet's huge dining room. I swear you could probably seat 30 people comfortably in this room.

- She woke up Carrie Chapman Catt in the middle of the night so that CCC could help re-enact a funny story Harriet was telling to the other suffragists traveling with them. Harriet was renown for her sense of humor and ability to make people laugh. (pg. 113)

Harriet's study, which displayed letters she wrote and received from Republican Presidents, including Calvin Coolidge

- She noted that women had to be "politicians before they were voters." Her memoirs are full of trenchant political analysis that still applies today. "Legislators may be leaders, but more often they seem to be followers." (pg. 106) Writing of an episode where one senator encouraged her to make up stories about another senator to blackmail him to the suffrage cause, she writes: "Why do sensible people put fools - really mentally lacking fools - in office?" (pg 144)

- She was in the congressional gallery with Susan B. Anthony when Wyoming was accepted as a state, with women enshrined as voters in that state's constitution. Susan B. Anthony said to her "it is the beginning of the end." (pg 107) I have to admit I teared up a bit at that.

- In describing Elizabeth Cady Stanton, she said "She was humorous, logical, and an agitator. She loved to stir up things, leaving the straightening out to Miss Anthony. She was not an organizer. The agitator in any reform precedes the organizer." (pg. 93)

- Speaking of her battle to get Tennessee Republicans to ratify the 19th amendment, she said: "I was to trust them and encourage them and keep calm if possible (it was not possible). And to be hopeful and happy if possible (and it wasn't possible)." 

Harriet's ashes are buried in her garden - she loved gardening.

If you're interested in learning more about Harriet, there are two really short episodes of the Mercantile Library's Podcast "Genius of Liberty" which talk about Harriet and her contributions - see episodes 9 and 10 (the whole podcast is great - lots of interesting suffrage history nuggets in short bursts!).

Sojourner Truth - Statute (Battle Creek, MI) and Plaque (Akron, OH)

Sojourner Truth is probably someone you already know, but did you know she fought a court case for her children's freedom after they were illegally sold down south? She was also a powerful speaker on behalf of abolition and women's rights. She gave her famous "Ain't I a Woman?" speech in Akron, OH, and there is a plaque there memorializing where it happened. Kerry Washington performed part of Sojourner's speech in this video. There is some controversy over whether the text was modified, as the most famous version of the speech was written down many years after the convention where Sojourner spoke. Currently, money is being raised to erect a statue of Sojourner on this site - you can donate here if you are interested.

Plaque where Sojourner gave her 1851 speech in Akron, OH

Sojourner spent the last years of her life in Battle Creek, Michigan, and there is a 16 foot high statute of her there. She's also buried there, but I didn't get to see her grave as the cemetery was closed the day I was there. You can learn more about Sojourner in this TED Video - I appreciated especially her faith in God.

Sojourner's Statute in Battle Creek, MI

Ida B. Wells-Barnett Home, Chicago, Illinois

Today this is just someone's private residence, but for over a decade in the early 20th century, this stone townhouse in Chicago (near the White Sox stadium) was home to one of the 19th and 20th century's fiercest anti-lynching writers, who was also a suffragist. Ida B. Wells-Barnett is just an amazing lady, and I was glad I could stop by her house and remember her amazing contributions. If you're interested in learning more about her, this podcast episode was really good.

Ida's Chicago Home

Frances Willard's Home, Evanston, Illinois

Not far away from Ida's home, just north of Chicago, was the home of another legendary progressive activist, Frances Willard. Frances was the head of the Women's Christian Temperance Union (WCTU) for decades. Her home is now a museum with many of her belongings still there. This tour was really good - the docent leading the tour knew so much about Frances and was able to answer all my questions, I was really impressed - it helped that it was a tour just for me and their new intern.

Frances' "cottage" in Evanston

Frances urged WCTU members to get involved in politics and suffrage. The tour noted that the WCTU got many more conservative women into the movement - the WCTU was a respectable way for women to become more involved in political matters and served as a "gateway drug" to more progressive and radical reforms. For more info you can check out this online essay and this online exhibit. The museum also has an online exhibit about the clash between Frances Willard and Ida B. Wells-Barnett - Ida called out Frances on her racism.

Actual photo of Frances at work - she wasn't afraid of clutter!

Frances' Study - much neater than in life!

While there, I purchased a short book by Frances: "How I Learned to Ride the Bicycle." It was a fun little book (her part was only 80 pages), but there were also some interesting scholarly essays talking about the context of women riding bicycles in the 19th century, which was fascinating.

Frances named her bicycle "Gladys" because it brought her gladness/joy!

Carrie Chapman Catt's Home, Charles City, Iowa

Cornfield across the road from Carrie's House

19 apple trees planted on Carrie's land to commemorate the 19th Amendment centennial last year

Not surprisingly for Iowa, Carrie Chapman Catt's home was surrounded by cornfields. For those of you who don't know, Carrie was Susan B. Anthony's hand-picked successor and the one who ultimately lead the National American Women's Suffrage Association to victory in 1919 and 1920 (I should note, Alice Paul led the more radical Women's Party at the same time, and deserves some of the credit for the victory too). Carrie was good friends with Harriet Taylor Upton, too. Carrie is one of the suffragists I admire the most, and this was the museum I was most looking forward to visiting because of that. 

Carrie's Childhood Home

This museum was interesting - instead of setting up furniture in the rooms of the house where Carrie grew up, the museum organizers had a local college put together displays walking through her life and quotes inside the house - so it was like walking through a timeline of Carrie's life. Unfortunately pictures were not allowed inside, but I did learn lots of interesting facts about Carrie - she was also a peace activist who met Gandhi! I did like seeing Carrie's "victory dresses" - she liked to commission blue dresses to celebrate suffrage victories.

In the unlikely event you've made it this far, thanks for reading my travelogue! More to come on the Laura Ignalls Wilder sites I visited, and of course the National Parks I'm currently spending time in. I'll close with a picture of the fireplace in Frances Willard's study, which quotes a poem by John Whitcomb Riley, reminding us to speak well of others - it's an inspiring message that can help us get things done instead of focusing on the negative.

"Let Something Good Be Said"